Weeds

We cleared them all (what a chore - 2 hours of back braking work - why did I want a large yard again????) and then sprayed with the "4-month, all season" weed killer ($20). That seems to have done it, but we sprayed again the following week too.

"Only a life lived for others, is the life worthwhile" - Albert Einstein

If they are in your lawn, we always use Weed and Feed. But if they are in rocks or concrete cracks, Roundup kills them real quick.

sure, fine, whatever

I feel for you...in the same boat myself. My side yard is terrible. We got behind on our spraying. Even if you don't have them, you need to sprary regularly to keep them away. We got some stuff at Sam's club (blue bottle) at teh end of summer and that stuff has been great near our back porch where we don't have plants, but I'm afraid to use it too close to plants. This stuff kills everything. I'll look for it in the garage.

We use Roundup to get them out of the area with rock. This takes care of them real quick.

just~me

Plain old kitchen salt- if the weeds are in cracks in cement or somewhere not in grass, so you don't kill everything. This is safe for kids and pets and you only have to do it once. Sounds crazy, but it really works!

Instead of buying those smaller spray bottles of Roundup, etc. get a sprayer at Home Depot / Lowe's/Walmart. It's really just a bigger jug with a hose and spray nozzle, but you can mix a less-expensive concentrate with water and get the same effect. They also sell a different kind of sprayer (a small container that you put the concentrate in that you attach to a garden hose); in my experience, the concentrate goes a whole lot faster, but with no better results.

Not to be pedantic, but the first thing you need to account for is that we live in a desert. When we put a liquid on the ground, it will probably spread horizontally rather than vertically. That means that, after a good rain, the first inch or two of soil might be damp, but it may not touch the roots of either the grass we want to keep or the weeds we want to get rid of. Chances are that the weed roots are deeper, and that the weed is hardier than the grass; otherwise, the grass would choke the weeds out.

The best way I've learned to create a healthy lawn in an arid climate is this. First, either rent a roto-tiller (if you can manage it), or hire a person with a roto-tiller for a day. The job is to a) dig up and turn over 4-6 inches of dirt under the lawn b) turn in a mixture of top soil, peat moss, and fertilizer and c) leave a finely ground level surface. Soak it for at least 2-3 days to the point that you can see moisture at least 6 inches down. Spread an equal amount of grass and barley seed, and turn the soil over to bury it. Apply a thin layer of weed and feed. Keep it watered to the point that the soil is moist at least 4 and up to 6 inches deep.

Your HOA and neighbors might not appreciate the short-term crop; the barley won't be very attractive. However, it will shield the grass, and the grass will eventually kill the barley off. The lawn will be way too dense for weeds to take hold.

Not only is this way cheaper than laying new sod (which has a limited number of grass plants per square foot, and lots of room for new plants -- weeds -- to take root), it's also cheaper and less toxic than applying weed killer over and over again.

After an initial investment that shouldn't cost you more than $200, your ongoing costs -- not having to worry about weeds, etc. -- are just whatever it takes to water and mow.

Instead of buying those smaller spray bottles of Roundup, etc. get a sprayer at Home Depot / Lowe's/Walmart. It's really just a bigger jug with a hose and spray nozzle, but you can mix a less-expensive concentrate with water and get the same effect. They also sell a different kind of sprayer (a small container that you put the concentrate in that you attach to a garden hose); in my experience, the concentrate goes a whole lot faster, but with no better results.

Not to be pedantic, but the first thing you need to account for is that we live in a desert. When we put a liquid on the ground, it will probably spread horizontally rather than vertically. That means that, after a good rain, the first inch or two of soil might be damp, but it may not touch the roots of either the grass we want to keep or the weeds we want to get rid of. Chances are that the weed roots are deeper, and that the weed is hardier than the grass; otherwise, the grass would choke the weeds out.

The best way I've learned to create a healthy lawn in an arid climate is this. First, either rent a roto-tiller (if you can manage it), or hire a person with a roto-tiller for a day. The job is to a) dig up and turn over 4-6 inches of dirt under the lawn b) turn in a mixture of top soil, peat moss, and fertilizer and c) leave a finely ground level surface. Soak it for at least 2-3 days to the point that you can see moisture at least 6 inches down. Spread an equal amount of grass and barley seed, and turn the soil over to bury it. Apply a thin layer of weed and feed. Keep it watered to the point that the soil is moist at least 4 and up to 6 inches deep.

Your HOA and neighbors might not appreciate the short-term crop; the barley won't be very attractive. However, it will shield the grass, and the grass will eventually kill the barley off. The lawn will be way too dense for weeds to take hold.

Not only is this way cheaper than laying new sod (which has a limited number of grass plants per square foot, and lots of room for new plants -- weeds -- to take root), it's also cheaper and less toxic than applying weed killer over and over again.

After an initial investment that shouldn't cost you more than $200, your ongoing costs -- not having to worry about weeds, etc. -- are just whatever it takes to water and mow.